Weeds, whether in an old lawn or a new lawn, can best be combated with chemical weed-killers such as the weed-and-feed combinations that are readily available at most garden centers. For ease of application, using a granulated form with a spreader is sometimes preferable to a liquid spray. Spray must be used on a day when there is little or no wind since drifting spray may kill or otherwise harm vegetables, flowers and shrubs. Let alone the fact that it is not ending up where you need it.

After spraying against weeds feed your lawn, so that the grass can thicken up and fill in the bare spots more quickly. Keep in mind, however, that the best way to prevent weeds in the first place is to have a healthy lawn, with good soil providing sufficient nutrients for the grass you plant. A healthy lawn will crowd out most weeds. Weeds come in after, when the lawn is badly thinned for one reason or another.

For example, a lawn may end up being thinned by diseases which are overlooked in our haste to lay the blame on weeds. For diseases that commonly attack turf, preventive steps are also the best offense. A healthy turf will be better able to ward off the disorders that occur. As discussed in other articles (see the resources below), a mixture of lawn grasses is more resistant to disease, so be sure to take this in to account if you are just planning your lawn.

Excess moisture in the soil caused by poor drainage seems to be a cause of many diseases. Another cause is poor circulation of air for the grass roots, due to near-by trees, shrubs, and buildings. You can do a little about this by pruning regularly.

Close mowing causes some diseases since it weakens the grass and causes more succulent growth, which, in turn, brings about fungal attacks. Keep the mowing height above 1 1/2 inches, even though the lower leaves may be attacked, the newer leaves may not be.

Watering late in the evening is a poor practice. If the grass remains wet at night, it is an open invitation for disease. It is better to water in the early morning when the water will do the most good and give the lawn a chance to dry out during the day. And if you use fertilizer to stimulate turf grasses, do so in the early spring and fall when the grass is healthy, not during the summer when the leaf is succulent and tender and easily attacked by disease.

A healthy turf will not in itself combat insects, but they will not be able to do as much damage if the grass is strong. If you suspect insects, such as grubs, roll back a foot of sod. The presence of some insect infestations in your lawn may be disclosed by flocks of birds, such as sparrows, starlings and grackles; they drill holes in the ground with their bills to feed on the grubs, sod webworms and other pests.

Moles are seldom a bother in turf areas except when attracted to grubs or other soil insects in the area. This provides the key to getting rid of moles-getting rid of grubs. Actually, moles can be beneficial, they eat bugs, beetles, earthworms, spiders and grubs. But they do harm a lawn when they cause bumpy ridges, which then become runways for mice-and mice feed on bulbs and roots.